the Quiver

The following details my current quiver, as well as boards gone-by.

Currently Owned Boards
6'8" Rusty (squash) FCS fins
Got the idea to buy this board after riding Scott's board one morning at a Santa Cruz beach break in some juicy winter surf. I'd been riding the Fish, then we traded off and it only took one wave to realize I needed a board like this for the juicier conditions of winter when the waves get steep and fast. The one word I'd use to describe it is "buttery." So nice and smooth, making bottom turns fun and reliable, while also providing plenty of drive. Bought it new at WISE (in SF) in February 2002. First session was at Ocean Beach the same morning I bought it; surfed it in juicy overhead waves. Instantly knew it was the right purchase after a couple really nice lefts on it. It was a Christmas, Birthday, Valentine's gift from my wife, and one of the nicest presents I've ever received. Purchased: February 2002
9'6" Michel Jundod long board. Single Fin.
After snapping my Walden in two at crunching Ocean Beach (March '02) I bought a longboard skateboard. Figured I'd spend $150 on something I could use almost everyday, before getting a new longboard surf board. 'Twas a great purchase, carving the smooth flats around my house with Willy Dog. By June, however, I was itching for a surfboard that would work well in the smaller summertime surf, so I made an appointment with legendary shaper, Michel Junod of Santa Cruz. Michel proved very attentive and enthusiastic, and before I knew it, he was off and shaping me a custom board! I put a deposit down from the proceeds of two shortboards I'd recently sold (see below) Picked it up in late July '02 and took it up north of Santa Cruz for a nice, short session in the hot summer sun. Have since had a number of fun sessions on it. Still learning the nuances of surfing a single fin, but am definitely stoked on this board. Had a great weekend of surf on it in Cambria in September of '02 as well. Purchased July 2002
7'0"" x 18 3/4" x 2 3/5" Rusty Minigun
Picked up this board from my long time pal and surfing mate, Scott Adams. He picked it up from a coworker as a trade. At any rate, Scott found it to be a bit much board for his style and size, so I gladly took it off his hands (for a price). The board surfs great in larger surf-- probably one of the best waves of my life was surfed on this board in January '97 in Monterey Ca. Double overhead, bowly beach break. Performed really well, and was plenty repsonsive dropping in on these big walls of fast moving water. A great board up to double over head. Moreover, it's definitely responsive enough to use in smaller stuff in a pinch. Purchased: Late Fall 1996

6'4" Fish (Jeff Widener)
Brand spanking new short board! Had this board custom made by San Clemente, Ca shaper, Jeff Widener. My first "fish" shape board. It is 6'4" by 20 5/8" by 2 5/8". I'd first surfed a similar board when I rode surfing buddy, Tim's fish in the Spring of 2001. I really enjoyed how Tim's fish worked -- super loose, fast, and fun as hell. So, I talked to his connection in San Clemente and worked out some rough dimensions on the phone. Got a call in late August that the board was ready, so made the pilgrimage down to the SouthCoast in September. First session out in SC, in board shorts, I knew it was a great call! I've subsequently had a bunch of super sessions on this new board. Turns remarkably well, and the two carbon fiber FCS twin fins and trailer give it super drive. So far I've surfed it in San Clemente and from Big Sur to Ocean Beach. Purchased: September 2001

8'0" (Ward Coffey)
My coveted big wave board. Purchased November 2000 at SF Surf Shop. Bought this beauty right off the rack. I knew it was a huge day (and un-surfable at Ocean Beach) so I hopped on my road bike and peddled down to the beach to check out the mackers. Peddled on to SF Surf Shop to see if they had any boards. Manager, Bill, convinced me, telling me at $300 and practically brand new this board was a steal-- and a good shape for my size and the conditions at OB. Furthermore, he stated, "I'd be surprised if it's still here at the end of the day." So I put down a deposit, and came back later that day to enjoy a beer (their annual fall BBQ) and picked up my new board. Rode it a half dozen days at the beach in 2000/'01. Performed really well. Looking forward to getting it out this Fall and Winter. Purchased: November 2000


Boards Gone By
6'10" Morning Star (shaped by David Pu) thruster
OK, bought this one from my Socal surf buddy and bro, Dan. Seems Dan didn't have too much use for this board, as it was a bit thicker and girthier for the conditions in Ventura. I was riding a 6'5" SC board, which didn't seem to be my ideal, all-around board, so I picked this one up from Dan in the Fall of 1995. It certainly gave me a lot more confidence in bigger, meatier surf.

This board served me well for about two years. The last session (2 days before Thanksgiving, 1997) was one of those sessions where you feel the waves couldn't be better, and "I can do no wrong." Thirty minutes later, driving down Hwy 1 for Carmel, the board flew off the roof of my girlfriend's car, directly into the fast lane of Hwy 1 traffic. I was never given an inkling of hope as the first vehicle (a macking industrial truck) crunched it... as I ran back along the shoulder one or two more cars nailed it- erasing any hope of survival.


7'6" x 2 3/4" Spence "Fun shape"
After a successful repair job (3/2000) from snapping it in two at Ocean Beach in January, I enjoyed this board in 2000 until September. Currently this board is in my garage in two pieces. My buddy took one on the head in Big Sur and brought the board in in two pieces. Devastating. I'd like to repair it on my own.

My second custom shaped board and first fun shape ever. In February of '96 I checked out my buddy's new 6'10" Spence. Really interesting design and overall clean shape. This enticed me to visit Spencer Kellogg's shop and check out his other shapes. Well, I was riding a 6'10" and didn't really need another short board, but thought I'd give a "fun shape" a try.

Spence seemed game to shape me a fun shape, and after about 4 phone conversations we agreed on the design (I was a little tentative and uneducated as to what exactly I desired in a fun shape) and he started shaping. I picked it up in April of '96 and have enjoyed it immensely, albeit sporadically. It's a thruster and has these funky channels on the underside (towards the rails) that makes for a speedy down the line board. I surfed this in Big Sur on Labour Day '97 and had one of my best sessions ever. Clear crisp Central California waters below me as I zipped across and down translucent faces. The really nice thing about this board is that it's super for paddling and catching waves, it has the "feel" of a cruiser, yet it's responsive enough to hit the lip, bring it around and down the face again. It can be a bit tricky riding this a couple few sessions in a row, and then going to a shortboard, but it usually doesn't take that long to get back into the shortboard feel and style of surfing.

6'10" Spence (Spencer Kellogg)
I had Ventura shaper, Spencer Kellogg shape this board for me. Easily the most interesting board I've ever owned. He'd done the 7'6" fun board, and I needed a new everyday board in the wake of losing my 6'10" Morning Star. I picked up the new 6'10" in early January, 1998. In fact, you can see me surfing this board in Life is Movement.(I'll put the video online one of these days.) Any rate, I rode the board a few times then snapped the leash at 26th. St. in Santa Cruz and nearly obliterated it on the rocks (high tide, ouch). Wooly Bear (Ventura) did an incredible job of restoring it. So, I continued to surf it a bit but was disillusioned. It felt too stiff in the bottom turn and I felt I had to think about it too much when I was turning it. But fast down the line. Spence's patented channels make this board really go! So, I shelved it for well over a year. I rode it this February (2000) and had one of the best sessions in a long time. Perhaps the conditions I surfed it in- heavy, firing, head high beach break, were ideal. Whatever it was, it surfed great and restored my faith in it. It is a tad thick too, which is a bonus in crunchy, heavy Ocean Beach/Northern California Conditions. Sold in Spring 2002 to a young lad getting back into surfing. Made the exchange in the parking lot at VFW's. Couldn't justify taking up space in my garage, and the constant heckling from my Dad when he'd come to the house and talk about me needing to open a surf board museum in my garage.

6'8" Craig
Picked this board up at Mitches in Del Mar. It's narrow, and thin (2 1/2 inches) with a swallow tail. So it's super snappy and responsive, but it bogs a bit for paddling. I guess that's the trade off-- higher performance, but bogs a bit. It's a fine line when your 180 lbs., and have surfed for 15 years. You want light and responsive boards, yet something that can handle the load. Sold in Spring 2002 to a young lad who wanted it as a prop in a movie, and occasional paddle outs. Again, it was time to thin out the quiver and clear out my garage a bit.


6'3" Pearson Arrow Thruster
My first custom shaped board. Shaped in October of '87 by Ward Coffee, this is a typical 80's style thruster with a wide squash tail. Served me well over about 7 years of surfing. In '94 or '95 I loaned it to Scotty for his riding pleasure. He took a real liking to it and surfed it for a couple years. In total, it's surfed most of California (from SF to SD that is), and has made three trips to Hawaii. I guess it goes to show, if you take care of your equipment (and get a thick enough board) it'll take care of you. I recently got this board back from the rafters of my Dad's house, and surfed it during the summer of '01 out at 26th street. Still rides great!

6'0" Nectar
The summer of '85 we were back down in San Diego vacationing and I met a local pro surfer named Brett. He had this Nectar that he was done surfing and was willing to sell me. I was game (and ready to get myself a thruster), so, negotiated with him. But, the funny thing is, I couldn't find him again on the beach (Moonlight Beach), so we left town without purchasing the board. But I did have his phone number, so made arrangements for him to drop it off at my friend's Grandma's house in Encinitas. A couple months later, I flew down to San Diego to visit my buddy, JB, who was attending UCSD. We drove up to Encinitas the next morning and picked her up.

5'8" Novak Twin Fin
This was my first surfboard ever- and I still have it in my Dad's rafters. Bought this beauty in the summer of 1984. I sold my drum kit to Clay Kenyon to help finance this board. I was convinced by neighborhood surfer, Chris Ottinger, that this would be "ideal" to learn on. "It'll be nice and loose for you". Of course, a wide bodied 5'8" twin fin was plenty loose. And, actually probably not too shabby of a learning board. After all, I was only about 5'6" when I bought this. I convinced my parents that this would be a great investment, and I bought the board for $115. Rode it for a couple years, and then it was a hand-me-down for my sister to surf on. I saw the Beach Boys that summer, and took my new 'board on a family vacation to San Diego for two weeks before I started High School. I was on my way. -- Last updated 09/2002