Central California Coast, September 2003. Photo: Hank Ten


Post session surf reports for San Francisco, Santa Cruz and beyond.

August 22, 2004
Santa Cruz

On Sunday, Jimmy and I went to the beach to screw around and do some body surfing. Lucky for me, I brought along my 6'3" Pearson Arrow (shaped for me in 1987!) After some frisbee, I paddled it out and much to my surprise, scored a few fun ones. I gotta say it was not real "trunkable" even though I did trunk it. After 20 minutes, I'd had enough and came in. I probably would have lasted longer if the sun was out, or if was more consistent.


August 13, 2004 - 2:00 PM
San Mateo Coastline

Yesterday I enjoyed a rare day off from work. After trying to get caught up with mounting paperwork at home, I decided to go find some waves. I met up with TB (fresh out of Yosemite and hanging in the Bay for a couple days) in Half Moon Bay. We'd decided to meet there to look for some waves along the open, rugged San Mateo coast. We'd turned off Hwy 1 and parked near the lavish, new Ritz Carlton. At first, it seemed we wouldn't find much surf this day -- the wind was moderate from the south / south west, and swell meager. It was early afternoon, and the sun was beaming down with some light scattered clouds. We walked along a new coastal trail and took in the behemoth hotel and golf course. After I used the plush hotel bathroom that seemd to be open to the public, we walked back to our cars and waxed environmental about this somewhat ostentatious lavish hotel out on this otherwise barren, rural coastline.

Driving south the wind seemed to be cooperating and soon enough, we'd pulled off the highway somwhere south of San Gregorio and decided to give it a go. We found a little trail that took us down to an incredible beach and secluded surf spot. I was just amazed at the beauty and splendor of this spot. It felt a bit like a remote stretch of Baja. We suited up on the warm sand and paddled out into what looked to be chest high surf. The paddle out was a breeze, and in no time, sets started pouring in. For nearly 2 hours TB and I shared the waves, talked story and marvelled at our good fortune. Only two other surfers as far as the eye could see in either direction. For awhile the waves really turned on, and one could get a sholder high, zippy left of right. I was really stoked to get some pretty good waves. Of late, I've only really been paddling or swimming, and when I've caught waves lately, they've been 1-2 foot runners in the Bay. It felt really good to stand up on a board and slide across a solid wall of water.

After the session we cruised up to the San Gregorio General Store and got some juice and water and checked out the mellow happy hour scene -- locals quaffing beers and whiskey and enjoying deviled eggs and olives from the bar. Looking out over the San Gregorio valley I was really stoked out on how the day had played out.

June 13, 2004 - 1:00 PM
San Francisco
Aquatic Park Swim

After a late night of listening to some rock and roll in the City Saturday night, Matt and I enjoyed a late Sunday morning breakfast on Chestnut, then sauntered over to the Dolphin Club for a swim. This morning was a picture perfect San Francisco day - air temps in the 70's with a light breeze and blue skies. The weather was so fine, it reminded me more of a Santa Barbara summer day; just fantastic. After throwing a few weights and hanging out on the dock talking story, I waded into the 60+ degree bay and headed for a 1 mile loop in the Cove. The water is getting to the point where it doesn't totally take your breath away, but nonetheless it's hard to adjust the first couple minutes. I stroked down to the flag, tagged it, then swam a straight line out to the opening. At the opening, I malingered for a minute and took in Alcatraz and a bit of the Golden Gate. While there was an ebb current, I was actually getting pushed east towards the breakwater as I tread water. I made my way back to the Club feeling the current. At the dock, I headed back down towards the flag for a couple buoys then turned around and swam back to the club, clocking about 22 minutes in the water. I'd hoped tos wim around 30 minutes, but was feeling a little cold and tired so cut it short. It felt great.

June 6, 2004
San Francisco
Crazy Cove swim at Dolphin Club.

June 5, 2004 - 11:30 A.M.
Santa Cruz
Swell: 8 ft, 17 seconds SW
Tide: minus at 6:30 A.M.

I hadn't really planned on surfing this day (Saturday and all) but when I checked the waves after an errand I had to run in Aptos, I found the surf was still pumping pretty good from the SW the day before. I quickly suited up and jogged to the water. Crossing the street a girl replied how crowded the lineup looked and once at the water's edge, I saw Nellie and a big telephoto lens. At first I thought, "Crap! I won't get any waves out there!" but after watching it, I realized the lineup didn't look that aggro or crazed. I paddled out on the loaner Ward Board and locked into a few really good lefts almost immediately -- lining up off the northern little rock outcrop. Midway through my 70 minute session I dropped in an awesome right hander. A grom looked to be going left off the peak and I hesitated to make sure before dropping right. The drop in was a bit sideways but controlled and the wave just jacked up and peeled right affording me several really nice off-the-tops. The Wardie really came through on this wave (and the others as well) really solid and responsive as I threw it up onto the lip and then whipping it back around and down the face of the wave. I surfed almost directly at Nellie before kicking out on the inside. After a few more waves I called it a session and hustled home. That eveing we cruised up to Marin for a summertime BBQ.

June 4, 2004 - 7:30 - 9:00 A.M.
Santa Cruz
Swell: 8 ft, 17 seconds SW
Tide: minus at 5:30 A.M.

Fantastic surfing this morning. Everyone had called for a macking south swell, and everyone was right. I arrived around 7:00 A.M. and through the thick fog I could see and hear that it was working. It appeared to be closing out more so than I'd like, but that would turn out to be misleading. I suited up and paddled out on a 6'8" WARD Board on loan from Matt H.

Paddling out sans booties or hood, I was greeted with a handful of waves that I took on the head as I made my way out south of the main peak. After 30 minutes of sitting around and missing a couple sets, I started to dial into waves. Over the 90 minutes I nabbed about 8 really fun lefts. The rights were all but shut down. The sets would come with 5-6 solid, meaty waves in them, and you really had to be lined up in the right place to ensure you would beat the section. But if you did, you were in for a good 100 yard ride!! One of the best waves I got was an in-betweener that I had to high line in big way, but in doing so, gained a ton of speed and blazed down a 25 yard section of blue-green wave. On a bigger set wave, I did a similar move, getting up real high on the wave and pumping the board a few times, dropping down the big face, then shot out and around a big section of white water before milking it to the inside where the wave reformed and threw out a little, allowing for a head dip. The WARDIE has this neat "5th gear" that you hit after a few seconds of riding and a few pumps. 6 or 7 guys out, all quite competent with nobody budging as the 9:00 A.M. hour approached. I caught one more good sized set-y in, cruising more than anything, then bellying it in.

May 31 , 2004 - Memorial Day
Cruising back from Mom's I stopped in to Manresa to hook up with Matt H and Jimmy. Saw Jimmy's truck, but didn't connect with those guys until afterwards. Paddled out on the fishy into glassy, slow, smallish waves in the late morning, bright sunlight. It felt really good to get wet after a late night around the beach campfire the night before. I only surfed for about 45 minutes and only caught a handful of waves. Cruised home and got some rest before rehearsing some music with the Rousties.


May 30, 2004
Santa Cruz
Super fun, solo session in town. Surfed the fishy in head high waves. Felt a little awkward on the fish as I hadn't ridden it in awhile and the steep sections of the wave begged for the 6'8". Nonetheless got a handful of solid waves, then met Julianne and we drove down to Monterey/Carmel to hang out with Mom and the rest of the gang. That afternoon, I took out the double kayak with Mike and we paddled the calm glassy blue-green waters off Stillwater cove. It was an absolutely stunning day, with temps in the 70's and decent wind that died off completely in the evening.

May 29, 2004
San Francisco
Between a rock and a hard place.
11:00 A.M. Medium tide, going to low tide around 4:00 PM

Today, I decided to paddleboard out and around Alcatraz. I'd done the paddle out there a couple times
(and have swum from the Rock to land a dozen plus times),
but had never circumnavigated her on a paddleboard or any other craft.

I would start my paddle from the Dolphin Club beach,which is located in Aquatic Park right in front of
Ghirardelli Square. I lugged my 14' Richmond paddleboard down to the club, threw some weights in
the weight room, then suited up for the paddle.

I started a little later than I had intended -- around 11:15 A.M. -- and I would pay for this in wind chop and swells, as the west wind had already started to pick up to around 10 knots as I paddled out through the opening into the open bay. Clad only in a speedo and a long sleeve wetsuit top, I think I surprised a few sail boats and some folks on the Blue&Gold ferry boats.

On my paddle out a few fancy looking large-ish sailboats cruised by, steering clear of me and returning my wave. I also saw a loud, gnarly looking powerboat that had "007" emblazoned on the gunell. It was some 400 yards to my west idling quite loudly. When it rev'd it's monster motor and headed in the opposite direction I was slightly relieved. The engine was so loud that if it had headed for me and in the event it didn't see me, I realized there was no way I could yell loud enough above the roar of the engine. It made me think that I really should paddle with a good, lightweight loud whistle around my neck.

Approaching the island the water grew fairly calm and I cruised in between an exposed rock that stands 5 feet above water, and the actual island on the west tip. As I rounded the corner to the north side of the island, the waters grew calmer still, but I realized I was now facing a pretty strong current. I did some knee paddling and made decent progress. To gauge my progress, I sited off different landmarks on the island-- the back of the kitchen, a guard tower etc. Definitely a bit challenging getting through that section, but nothing like the time I was sucked out and under the Golden Gate while surfing Fort Point! Rounding the north east corner I had to hold up -- one large Blue&Gold ferry was docked unloading and loading, while another Blue&Gold ferry sat some 200 yards off the dock. I figured it would not be very polite to charge in front of the waiting ferry in the event the docked ferry pulled out and the waiting ferry wanted to pull in. After a few minutes, the ferries figured it out, and I motored around the island and headed back into the "channel." Now I was on a trajectory that I've swum a dozen times. Sure enough, just like the swims I've done, as I headed into the channel it got pretty nasty and I was cutting through 2-3 foot, sideways runners. At no point did I feel panic, though I thought about what I was doing and wondered how a non-swimmer/paddler would fair. I figured "not well" and continued to cut through the chop. On my approach to Aquatic Park, I realized I'd not paddled east enough and was now west of the opening -- the same mistake I've made swimming this on a couple occasions. But the big difference is that with a 14' paddleboard you can cut across a current a lot easier than when you are swimming.

Once inside the cove, it is smooth paddling. Approaching shore, I spied Matt and Jimmy down on the beach. After a few minutes talking story, I returned to the club, threw on the cap and goggles and did a half mile swim. The showers and sauna felt quite nice at the end of the swim.

April 27, 2004 - San Francisco
4.6 ft. @ 19 seconds (South swell)
Board: 6'8" Rusty

Sitting at the Giants game Monday night, I knew I'd score waves early Tuesday morning. It felt like it was 80 degrees at 8PM(!!!), with nary a breath of wind!! I made sure I didn't drink too much beer, and instead enjoyed the hot night and the game without getting too amped about surfing the next morning. The Giants pulled it out, 3-2, and I I headed home for a hot, restless night's sleep. With wifey gone, Willy and I took turns tossing and turning through the night.

I arrived to the beach a bit tardy-- 7:20ish. I was stoked with what I found: Lots of energy, fairly glassy and it looked peaky to me. Usually TB and I have pretty much the same take and taste in waves, but this morning, I found him a little bit down on the conditions. Maybe because it was his third session in as many days, while I'd just gotten back from a couple days in Vegas where the only surf I got were a few 2 footers at Mandalay Bay. Anyway we paddled out near the Chalet and surfed (and paddled) for two solid hours.

Early in the session I stroked in to a nice peak and went left. I was a bit late on the drop but it held up for just long enough to make a decent, controlled bottom turn. Coming off the turn I laid in to the top third of the wave and dropped down in perfect position for a barrel. In hindsight I should've jammed my hand into the wave at that point, but I did shift my weight back enough to stall a bit and enjoy a clean, dry, little cover-up -- the wave throwing out over most of my body. Accelerating out, I got a got a couple more turns in and shot off the back, elated. One of the better waves I've gotten all "non-season" (it is the end of April afterall.) Over the next ninety minutes we enjoyed a few more waves and got pulled hard up the beach past Fulton. TB and I made a good effort to get all the way back to our starting point. Back at our starting point it was completely glassy and peaky again, with beautiful looking lefts just out of the reach to the south, breaking, mostly unridden. I watched TB nab a really nice looking wave and ride it a good ways in. We tried to hold our position but finally gave in and got dragged all the way back up the beach again!! At that point I was willing to take anything in as it was getting late and I went for a peaky nasty wave and got launched. Finally bellied one in and jogged up the beach. We picked up some trash and headed back to the 70 degree parking lot to change and talk some story. Jake, who'd surfed with us, stoked me out on a demo c.d. of his band Last of the Blacksmiths.

April 21, 2004 - Santa Cruz, Ca.
11 ft. @ 14 seconds
. (Tide was minus at 6:45 going to a high of 3.0 in the afternoon)
Got in a great midweek session as a new swell rocked in to town right on schedule. Paddled out just before 8 A.M. at an old favorite in Santa Cruz. I hadn't caught good waves here in quite awhile (maybe since the Fall?) but was stoked to arrive and find big old, makeable bombs breaking on the outer reef. (Pictures are forthcoming) I quickly suited up, jogged a couple hundred yards up the beach and paddled out on my trusty 6'8".

There crowd ranged from two to eight in the 90 minutes I was in the water and most everyone was pretty accomplished. I dialed in to no less than a dozen waves. Many of the 6-8 foot waves were a-frame peaks though some closed out pretty hard. I managed a few really good waves out there. The highlight was a big set wave left that came in at me like a big, easy softball pitch, but gained in size and steepness as I made the drop. I took off sorta sideways and slid just a little, angling my board down the line. Dropping down the face, I made a medium sized bottom turn, then banked into the pocket, hoping the wave would throw. It didn't, and I continued back down off the bottom and towards the lip as a fellow surfer hooted me down the line. I thanked him with a small spray as I went off the top. Another turn or so and I was off the back of the wave, stoked. Another real nice wave came ten minutes later. This one was a non-set wave left in that magical inside area between the two rocks on the beach. Fast, open faced and makeable, I gently pumped down the wave, with the wave doing much of the work. I really noticed that crouching a bit more than usual and staying "springy" with my legs really helped my form and speed. I took a final big set wave that more or less closed out and I straightened out and headed for shore. It felt really good to surf this old, familiar break and watch it do its thing.

April 10, 2004 - Santa Cruz, Ca.
6 ft. @ 13 seconds

Jimmy and I surfed north of town at a spot we've been hitting since around 1987. We cruised up a very foggy Hwy 1 to the parking spot and were pretty surprised to find around 9 or 10 cars. Nonetheless, we hiked out to the surf, optimistic we'd score some waves. I'd missed the big swell action of Thursday and Friday but figured I'd get some waves on Saturday despite a waning swell and weekend crowds. (On Friday, I managed my first open water swim of the year, hitting Aquatic Cove after an all day meeting in SF. It felt good to get back to the club and into the 55 degree bay water, sans wetter. I did an easy 1/2 mile with Jon, and surprisingly, wasn't too cold afterwards.)

Out in the water this morning we opted for the nothernmost peak. We'd watched some really clean lined up waves as we paddled out. Nothing spectacular, shoulder to head high, but glassier and cleaner than I'd seen at this spot in quite awhile. The crowd was pretty easy going -- 12-14 mellow surfers. Over the couple hours in the water, I nabbed a number of very mediocre rights and a couple really fun lefts. Growing up surfing here, I almost never went left. I don't know if the break has changed or if we're just surfing a different part of this break. Nonetheless, the lefts were pretty satisfying allowing a few good turns and a decent amount of speed. After 2 hours I caught a good right in, having to bottom turn around a guy paddling out and trimming down the line. I kicked it on the beach for 15 minutes and when I realized Jimmy wasn't coming in, I dashed back out over the low tide reef and surfed and talked story for another hour.

March 20 , 2004 - Los Angeles, Ca.

I awoke Saturday morning at 6:30 A.M. at my buddy's pad down in Los Angeles. He informed me the surf report called for knee high surf and we were looking at a pretty high tide. We decided to skip it. I went back to bed. Later I would check the buoys and see something like 2 feet at 12 seconds. The smallest buoy reading that I've seen in months and months (being from the Bay Area where it never seems to dip below 4 feet or so in the winter.)

After a leisurely morning at his place, including a great breakfast that he cooked up, my wife and I took off around noon, headed for El Porto (Manhattan Beach) in hopes of an afternoon go-out. I picked up the Driftwood that was sitting in TB's parent's rafters and headed to the beach. What I found looked a lot more like Ocean Beach in the summer than LA! Onshore, dribbly, cold conditions. In fact, it was pretty much unsurfable. So, the Driftwood stayed in the car and Julianne and I opted for a beach run. Starting around 26th Ave, we headed south towards the Manhattan Pier. I dropped her at the Pier and continued on to the Hermosa Pier, running in board shorts and a hooded sweatshirt that I actually needed. Halfway down to the Hermosa Pier, a kite boarder summoned me to help hold his giant sail as it came down softly onto the sand. All I had to do was grab hold of it and steady it and he took it from there. He thanked me profusely in his Italian accent and I continued on, alternating between the cambered hard pack and the softer sand along the berm crest. There is something really magical about running on the beach. I read somewhere once that there is an actual chemical reaction -- of the water and air or somesuch-- and that is what you feel when you run along the beach. At any rate, it sure is an invigorating workout. The beach was fairly clean and fairly deserted, especially for SoCal. Running along the water line on the way back I was surprised by how cold the water felt on my bare feet. During my 45 minute run I envisioned getting into great shape and cranking in a few Swim / Run events this summer. We'll see.

February 20 , 2004
7:30 - 9:00
8 ft. 13 seconds

This session blew my mind. I met TB in Santa Cruz around 7 a.m. and we quickly railed up the Highway 1 to a spot north of town. It was a Friday morning between rain storms. The sky was a soft silvery gray, the ground a bit damp from an evening sprinkling, and nary a lick of wind. We parked and checked the break. While not all time, it certainly looked fun if a bit soft. We were looking at a medium tide going to a 6 foot high at 10:00 A.M., so time was of the essence. Down on the beach and on the rocks, the first 50 yards of the paddle seemed far more challenging than I'd gambled on. The whole set up, along with a decent swell and a full tide spoke "Wild!" to me. Nevertheless, we leapt off the rocks on an incoming surge and I skimmed over some semi-exposed boulders unscathed before jamming out through the raucous inshore wave action. Outside we sat with one other cat and waited for waves. As this was my first time surfing here and I'd heard some hairy tales of nasty hold downs and even a recent shark sighting, I was a bit reticent and cautious at first.
I watched as TB and the other guy dialed in to longish 50+ yard rights. My first wave was a fairly mellow right hander. Easy take off, moderate bottom turn and 20 yards along the mellow face. I watched as the other guy moved around from south to north peak somewhat on the inside. I also watched as a few sets pinned him on his paddles back out. The waves continued to come and we all traded off lefts and rights. While the shoulders were pretty mellow, the peaks were pretty heavy. I watched several waves throw with some force and thick, menacing lips. Just as I was feeling pretty confident, a set caught me just a little too inside. I took the first one right on the head. As I surfaced, I was bummed as another 10 foot face rolled in and unloaded again right on top of me. On both waves I sheepishly bailed my board (not that anyone was around) and came up just fine. In between sets I marveled at the wild setting and the verdant green hills to the north. From my vantage, the setting reminded me strongly of true Central Coast (think Cayucus and Cambria.)

After an hour or so TB got a decent sized right to the inside as I went left. He paddled back out and described how at the end of the wave his board had come back and whacked him in the head. Pulling back his squid lid, he exposed a decent two inch gash on the left side of his head. Nothing to freak out about, but enough of a gash to where he probably didn't want to be out surfing much longer. After another wave or so we headed in. My last left was maybe 8 or 9 feet and re-formed nicely on the inside allowing for some good turns on the 6'8".

This was definitely a session to remember.

February 10, 2004
SF 7:00 -10:00
Epic session. Paddled out just after 7 a.m. into a beatific San Francisco morning. Half of the paddle out was in the shadow of the rising sun which is always a neat feeling. What ensued was a really fun three hour session. One of my first waves was big, golden clean right. Dropping somewhat late on this gentle 8 foot wave and did a long clean pronounced bottom turn and came up high into the face, back down, then off the back landing next to the only other guy near this peak. The rest of the session I drifted south and worked a couple other distinct peaks. For about twenty minutes this left was working really well and I nabbed a few 8 footers in a row, the 6'8" feeling like plenty of board. The final stretch of the session big nice waves seemed to be always just out of reach and I just couldn't go in, despite getting pretty chilled. I'd swore I'd get out at 9:00 a.m. but since I haven't been wearing my watch I didn't know how long I'd been out. When I finally asked someone what time it was, he remarked, "About 10!" I caught one in. My feet were still thawing out when I arrived at the office!

February 08 , 2004
SF 9:00 -11:00
Medium going to about 5.9 foot at 12:24 p.m.
Pulled the rare double go-out today at the Beach. Got to VFs around 8:30 and found really disorganized surf. The wave surface was clean, but the wave quality was shapeless. MattH and I decided to paddle out at the south end where it looked more rideable and much bigger. Similar size to Friday, if more disorganized. Paddling out through the shore-pound I had to bail my board and in diving to the bottom managed to hit bottom with my face. When I tasted sand, I knew it was time to come up for air! Fortunately for me, that was the worst of the session. Once outside I was pleased to find pretty big waves -- what looked like 8 to 10 foot faces and makeable. Over the two hours I scored about 8 waves. 7 of them were lefts. I was stoked with my 7'0" board. It hadn't seen any action in months and the conditions looked pretty big and bumpy and definitely warranted a bigger board. It felt great paddling and even better under my feet. A couple of the lefts were really smooth and would kind of wrap into this bowly section making a nice semi "U" shape. The drops were pretty mellow, although I did have to pull back from a handful as there were some pretty steep and hairy ones especially with the hard off-shores blowing up the surface. The best wave I got was a left that walled up mellowly in front of me. I dropped in solidly, banked off the bottom came up high on the face, banked back down, then off the back. There's a lot to be said for riding largish waves off the back. It's a great feeling. Another highlight was the "party" wave I shared with Matt. A good sized left rolled in and Matt had priority but I was down the line enough to drop in. I didn't really think Matt was going to make it, but I was stoked when I looked over and saw him smoothly bottom turning, grinning ear to ear. I skated off the back.

1:30- 3:30. After the session, I snapped a couple photos (108 Kb), then headed over to the Fillmore Auditorium on Geary to pick up a couple tickets for the upcoming RatDog show in March. After grabbing a burrito, I checked out the beach again around 1:30 and it looked like it was cleaning up. I paddled out at the north end on my 6'4" fish. The waves were awesome for all of about 10 minutes before the wind shifted too northerly and it got funky really quickly. With a fierce longshore current running, I got out after 45 minutes, walked up the beach, then paddled back out for 3 more waves. This second session was fun, but not nearly as thrilling or fulfilling as the morning sesh.

February 06 , 2004
SF 8:00 -10:00
Medium going to about 6.0 foot at 11:00 a.m.

Big. Clean. Bumpy. Mushy. Throwing. "Multi-dimensional" today as TB would put it. Arrived, caught off-guard with a 6'4" Fish and a 6'8" Thruster. Needless to say I paddled out on the 6'8". Coulda used a 7'8"! Surfed the south end with TB, Jimmy and Matt. Paddle out was o.k. -- a "6.5" on a scale of 1-10, with "10" being a bitch. Got a handful of waves that were all pretty mediocre due to the mush factor. Big fun drops but hardly any wall to them. I watched Jimmy take off on a really nice looking right and watched TB take off on a large clean left. There were some gems to be sure, but I didn't really dial into any until my final wave. The waves seemed to get bigger and gnarlier as the session wore on. At one point I paddled well south to a zone that was heaving with really nice looking lefts. I missed the set, then paddled out waiting for another. I found the perfect place to sit and wait -- almost perfect. A big set came in and I spun and went for the first one but couldn't quite make it into it, and with two guys sitting directly inside and in front of me I didn't want to chance going over the falls and into them. As I spun around seaward, I found myself in the most unfortunate position of being a little too inside of the remaining set waves. I duck dove the first, then the second, and it ragdolled me and ripped my board out of my hands. I panicked a bit, opened my eyes up and swam for the green light of surface!

Towards the end of the session TB and I drifted north and watched Jimmy take a set on the head as we sat safely in the channel to the south. We both tried in vain to scratch into a set to get one in. After more waiting, I finally dialed in to a large left, paddling hard into the blinding off-shores wind and spray and smoothly dropping down the ten foot face. It felt surprisingly good and smooth, especially for a 6'8". The crackle of the breaking wave behind me was much louder than usual. I bellied in on an inside wave and almost got pitched on that one too. All in all it was a fairly good session and nice to be in some large conditions amongst the clear, green-blue water of San Francisco. Walking up to the lot we chatted with a South African lady who was contemplating a go-out. Check out this photo of the inside bars heaving. Hate to take one of these on the head on your paddle out!

February 01 , 2004
SF 11:15- 1:45

Arrived at the beach to find light off-shores and a light drizzle. Tide was high around 8 a.m. and dropping to low around 2 p.m. I was stoked to find shoulder to head high waves breaking on the inside bars. There weren't really any "sets" to speak of, rather "stand alone" waves coming in and breaking all over the beach. I paddled out on the 6'8" which would prove to be a little too much board for the smallish, clean conditions. I was immediately stoked on the blue-green water and calm, glassy wave surface. I surfed a solitary peak to the south of where I parked, but was soon joined by about 4 guys who all surfed well. I watched one goofy foot get a couple back-to-back lefts that barreled beautifully. He didn't officially make it out of either -- falling, or getting tossed at the last moment, but it sure was nice to watch. My best wave was probably a right that was chest high. I dropped in, slid right and hung for a barrel that didn't materialize. Realizing I wasn't going to get covered up I stood up and gave a quick pump down the line and a smooth backside, off the top. After awhile I drifted north into a section of beach that was desolate and for good reason -- waves were sporadic and quality poor. After ten minutes of that, I caught a small right in then jogged back down the beach almost to the sand dunes and paddled back out for another hour.

Overall I had a nice solitary sesh. Waves were a little hard to figure out, and many of the waves you thought would jack up, didn't, or were kinda doubling up with the wave in front of it. Nonetheless, if you were patient, you could get a good one. At the end, I was getting pretty cold and felt pretty clumsy in my poor fitting Billabong wetsuit which was filling with water from every conceivable opening. (The 2003 Rip Curl Elasto is at the cleaners/repair shop yet again for a blown seam!)

As I headed up the beach I saw a few guys with these colorful fish boards. I approached them and found out it was Manny from Mandala Designs. Really cool looking boards, and judging from the way the guys were riding them in the line up, they look like they'd work well. Will have to keep an eye our for one of his "Demo Days." The veggie "Chinos" burrito and Coke went down nice afterwards.

January 11 , 2004
SF 2:15 - 4:15

Finally got some fun, size-y waves. SA and I with up with TB, fresh back from Kaua'i. Pretty good energy pouring in. We paddled out at the north end as the 5 foot tide was dropping to a minus tide. Wind was sideshore, turned a bit onshore, then stopped altogether. I surfed my 6'3" 1986 Pearson Arrow board (shaped by Ward Coffey), as I'd already stripped my other two main boards (6'4" fish and 6'8" thruster) for the trip to Costa Rica. The waves came in from all angles, sizes and shapes. Nabbed a bunch of pretty fun waves, though no true gems.I could have used my 6'8" out there. I watched TB nab some nice set waves riding like someone who'd just gotten back from a 10 day surf trip. MattH made a brief appearence to drop off some fins for me (thanks, Matt), and Jimmy dropped by as well. Check out this photo, taken from a ways away, post session.

December 22, 2003
Santa Cruz 2:30 - 5:00

North of Santa Cruz. Low to minus tide. Medium large waves. Surfed with MattH and Jimmy. First ones out into the lineup, last ones in, as darkness fell. Waves were a bit bumpy at first but really cleaned up nicely as the afternoon wore on. Surfed my 7'0" which at times seemed like too much board. But, glad I surfed it for the bump and for the ease of getting into them. Ran in to old grade school chum, Brad B out there.

Caught a few pretty good rights throughout the session. Watched Jimmy score an almost perfect looking right hander as I paddled back out to the peak. Towards the end of the seshy,I worked the rare left for a handful of waves. Pretty steep drop as the wave jacked up over the reef, but then you could get around the section and float down the line on a really nice section or two. Felt really good going left and getting some turns in. Felt like I was "surfing" again. MattH claimed it was one of his best sessions ever. We hurridly hiked out of their in darkness and I sped home to help prepare a pre-Christmas dinner for the family.

December 18, 2003
Santa Cruz 8:00 - 9:30

Well, I'm not gonna give up surfing and sell all my boards, wetsuits etc. Yeah, finally had a decent little session. Paddled out at the most famous surf spot in Santa Cruz and scored some decent waves. Conditions were really clean, off-shore, but the tide was a bit high making for inconsistent, somewhat sluggish waves. Nonetheless, the waves were certainly good enough to produce some fun rides. Started off the session by casually jumping off the rocks and stroking over to the several-person crowd with a dry hair (under my hood.) I caught two rights almost immediately -- drop in, medium bottom turn, medium off the top, back down, then off the back. Nothing too riveting, but enough to get the stoke going and enough to remind me how nice it is to get in a couple fluid turns. After the initial couple waves I sat for awhile before getting another couple shorter ones, ate it on one take off, and had to pull back from a several that I was too late on, or didn't have priority on. Stroked in to a pretty sizey, ledging left and made a smooth drop, but the wave didn't materialize beyond that. Finally towards the end of the 90 minutes out there I caught a real nice peaky right. Fairly steep drop, then proceeded to surf the wave for a good 75 yards (it seemed) -- backside turn off the top, then back near the curl to let it reform. The glassy, blue-green water actually reminded me of Lake Tahoe for a split second as I carved into the buttery surface on my 7'0". Overall, a real nice session. Only a handful of surfers the entire time. I left when a couple longboarders and a knee border joined the crowd and when I absolutely had to get out to get to a meeting in time.

December 16, 2003
San Francisco 8:00 - 9:40
Swell: 5ft. 11 seconds. Low tide at 11:30 (2 foot or so)

Met MattH at our usual spot en route to the beach. Rounding the bend on our approach, I was stoked to find real clean, off-shore conditions. Waves looked headhigh-ish! We drove the length of the beach but decided to paddle out at the south end. At first I tried my luck on the inside bar, but it seemed 9 out of 10 waves would double up and be unrideable. So after a few short rides, I paddled more outside where MattH was surfing. I was a good 100 yards south of him and I watched some really, really nice waves pour in on the outter bar. Some waves to my south, some to my north. I couldn't seem to dial in to the 2 or 3 good sets that came in over the 40 minutes I was out there. They seemed to always be "just out of reach." I think this is typical of more of windswell conditions with moderate to hard off-shores. It certainly wasn't like some of the sessions I had early in the season at this spot when I could pick of 15- 20 waves in a session.

"Damnit! This isn't going to last!" I told myself. "The ocean doesn't just keep serving you perfect sets... and if it does, the crowds won't stay in the parking lot much longer!! You gotta get on one of these!" Well, after seeing a few really good sets that I couldn't get on, I settled for a couple lesser waves that would have a decent drop, but then would kinda back off and then fizzle. I watched MattH take a real nice right hand drop, but then that wave too sort of fizzled out. At the end of the session we tried the inside. We both watched a regular footer get an insane backside tube ride (a 4 foot wave or so). He must've been pitted for 3 or 4 seconds, and acted very nonchalant as he came out and peeled off the wave. While disappointed that I did not lock in to any meaty walls that I could really carve, it was an o.k. session. Looks like tomorrow will get big and we'll have waves through the week so there is still hope that I can break my slump by Christmas!

lonely sf wave
clean, but sluggish



December 13, 2003
Santa Cruz, 10- 12:00
Swell: 8 ft. 14 seconds. 5foot high tide at 12:00.

MattH, Jimmy and I checked out the beaches south of Santa Cruz. Waves were largish and fairly smooth but not that appealing. Some were flat and sluggish, some looked like they were pretty juicy. Only 1 or 2 guys out so hard to judge the conditions. We decided to check the East Side. We found some decent waves there (see trio of images below), but mostly they were either kinda warbly from the approaching high tide or closing out. The best waves were at Pleasure Point, but turns out there was a contest there! Argh! So we headed back to the beach break south of town and paddled out. The nice thing about the session was the lack of crowds. It was really just the three of us. Over the course of the session I caught about 6 waves -- all pretty slugish. My 6'8" handled the waves nicely, there just wasn't much push. I paddled for, and pulled out of about a dozen waves, watching them close out down the beach in either direction. Watched one spectacular wave close out the entire beach and watched a spectacular barrel.

Here is what we passed up...

closed out beachbreak
open faced, but slow


December 6, 2003
Santa Cruz, 2:30-3:30

Jimmy and I thought we would try our luck on SCs West side. The swell was in, the tide was dropping, but the weather had a lot to be desired. Pulling up at the break we found pretty choppy waters, but waves pouring in over the reef. We quickly suited up as a light rain came down and paddled out off the rocky point. Conditions went from fair to poor in the hour we were in the water. I got a few short, bumpy rides on my 7'0" and Jimmy scored a couple nice drops/rides.

December 3 , 2003
San Francisco

8:20 - 10:20
Swell: 3 ft/ 11 seconds; light offshore
Tide: 5 Foot and dropping

Real mellow, small waves this a.m. Not pinner, but small, glassy, clean, a-framey, and quick. Met up w/ Jimmy around 8 a.m. and paddled out. Beautiful clear morning at the beach, fog bank hanging low in the golden gate, but clear at the beach. Surfed the 6'4" fishy which was the right board. Got a couple decent waves out of the 12 or 13 that I caught. Caught one nice left in particular that I got enough speed on to do a fairly smooth, clean floater/off the lip that I landed. But, mostly, I couldn't really get in the groove to get in early enough to get down the line fast enough. TB joined me late in the session and we traded off a couple waves before I caught one in and railed off to work in downtown SF.

November 28, 2003
San Francisco

8:30 - 10:30
Swell: 3-4 ft/ 14 seconds; E and NE wind
Charged up to the beach the day after TG hoping to score some leftovers (sorry, couldn't resist). Turns out it was nothing like the epic TG day proper, but still was plenty clean and plenty surfable. Paddled out at Sloat into shoulder high conditions. I decided to surf my 6'8" as I wanted to demo some FCS GAM fins that MH loaned me. Well, could've used the fishy as it was pretty gutless out there. Still, managed a few fun waves. One backside right that allowed for several backside snaps along a waist to chest high peeler on the inside bar. (The fins did indeed feel "looser" if less drive than mine) I saw a few really good looking lefts pour through over the 2 hours but could never get one as it was really crowded and shifty. Ended my session inside, S.O.S. on the small, fast beachbreak waves.

Part 2: After getting out, I picked up a message that TB was just paddling out at VFs. So I drove up to check it out. I was enthused by what I saw as I drove up the Highway. As I reached the parking lot, I realized I had an extra, dry(!!), 4/3 in the back of my truck, so I suited up and paddled out. Much better waves during this session. Clean, quick a-frames. The thing I noticed most was just how thick and fast these waves were compared to the previous session (20 minutes prior)!
Surfed the 6'4" fish this time, and it too was quite a contrast to the 6'8" I'd just rode. After about 45 minutes and a handful of fun waves we called it a session and headed in.

November 18, 2003
San Francisco

7:30 - 9:30
Swell: 9.5 ft/ 15 seconds; E and NE wind
Tide: Ligh tide was 5 ft @ 7:00 a.m.

Good size surf this morning, but the shape was rough. Met TB in the lot at 7:30 and the waves looked pretty crunchy, and a little disorganized, but definitely clean enough and manageable enough to paddle out. I've got a bit of a cold or something so was a little less enthusiastic than TB, but definitely game. After some 15 duck dives we made it out. The waves were thick and pretty peaky, but very difficult to read and get into, despite surfing my 8'0". After a good 20 minutes and backing out of a couple waves, I dialed in to a right just after TB got a right. Nothing to write home about -- the wave was a little overhead, slight bottom turn then skated off the back. In the middle of the session we saw this beautiful, bowly left pour through -- 2 or 3 real nice waves that got me a bit more excited. But it wasn't really to be. Could never get in the right place. Only surfed about 3 waves, and ended up catching my final wave in well into the dunes. Overall, a good experience and hang, though not the best surf session. Waves seemingly were cleaning up as the tide was dropping out.

November 16, 2003
San Francisco

10:30 - 1:00
Swell: 6 ft/ 11 seconds; E and E/SE wind
Tide: Low tide was 11:00 @ 3 ft

Didn't have big expectations for a Sunday sesh, but the weather had cleared up nicely from Saturday's rain, and the buoys indicated east wind and a little juice. Pulling up at the beach I was elated to find super clean a-frame conditions. Not pumping, but decent size (2-3 feet overhead on sets?) Quickly suited up and paddled out the 6'8" Rusty. Parked just south of the bathrooms and paddled straight out from my truck. Conditons were fun: a-frames, nary a barrel, but overhead fun.
For my first 10 waves or so I surfed every wave "off the back." It felt like skiing the green circle beginner slopes after practicing on double black diamonds. Big open faces which allowed for smooth deliberate turns. Best wave of the day was a nice right hander that must've had an 8 or 9 foot face: somewhat late drop bottom turned around the white water section and came up off the top with a smooth backside turn, as the inside rail sliced in to the top side of the wave then back down. It felt like "perfect turn". 'Twas a really nice looking morning -- some light grey clouds over the Sunset and out towards Marin, but blue skies over the water.

I managed to get my fair share of waves until the "longboard blockade" started dominating all the set waves, sitting a good 50 yards further out than the short boarders. No worries. Jimmy and I paddled south and scored a few more good waves down there. All in all, a really solid session. Got home and finished painting the rest of the bedroom that I'd promised wifey I would paint. Big swell should be hitting late today (Monday) and Tuesday. We'll see...

November 13, 2003
San Francisco

4:30 - 5:20
Tide: 3ft and dropping

I love sloppy blown out surf. I really do. Sometimes.

MH and I paddled out south of Sloat under grey, cloudy afternoon skies. Only a couple dudes out. The surf sure didn't look like much from the lot, and truth is, it wasn't all that great. But good enough to get about 10 fun waves. Set waves were nearly head high and had just enough push to get some speed and nail a couple good turns. Wind was out of the south, so it wasn't too crumbly, even though it was quite textured and bumpy. Surfed my ever fun 6'4" fish. The big carbon fibers fins carving nicely. After the session we kicked it until we headed out to see The Sheets in San Francisco.

November 12, 2003
San Francisco

Tide: 3.3ft and rising

MH and I met Jimmy around 7:30 A.M. Gorgeous, warm off-shore morning at the Beach. Conditions looked fun and clean, if a bit soft. Overhead, long walls to be had. Surfed my 6'4" as it looked like there were some flat sections, but prolly coulda used my 6'8" to make more confident, deep bottom turns. Nonetheless a very good session. Best wave of the day was my first. After paddling around for 20 minutes trying to dial one in, I sat under the lip of an incoming set wave and took off! Quick pivot upon take off, highlined it for a couple quick short turns near the top of the wave, then dropped down the face, feeling it well up behind me. No barrel, but shot out of the pocket up the face, into a floater/off-the lip combo. Nabbed another 7 or 8 waves and took one in. Looks like the season might finally kick into high gear in the next week or so. It's about time.

November 2, 2003
San Francisco


Met TB in the lot around 8:45. Conditions were nothing like Saturday. Slight onshore wind, smallish crumbling waves. We talked story in the lot for awhile and decided we might as well do a little beach cleaunup if we weren't gonna paddle out. After 20 minutes of picking up rubbish, the waves started to turn on a bit, so we dropped our trash bags, suited up and surfed a peak south of VFs. For 20 minutes it really cleaned up nicely and TB and I traded off clean, shoulder high waves, surfing pretty much in solitude. A stark contrast to the competitive and crowded go-out that was Saturday.

November 1, 2003, Tuesday
San Francisco

5.9ft/ 11 seconds

Super conditions. Super crowded. Paddled out solo mid-beach on the falling tide (it was dropping to about a 3.0 ft. low at noon). Surfed well north of a couple large pack of surfers for the first hour enjoying some really clean, nice shoulder high waves. Surfed "off the back" on most of them as there was plenty of shoulder. But the tide got the better of me after awhile and it took me down the beach 200 yards where the crowds were and where the sets were breaking much better and harder. Problem was, there were virtually no cleanup sets, so hungry surfers would sit on a peak, and 6 or 7 at a time would paddle into one (most people respecting the guy who was deepest.) I witnessed a couple really nice, macking barrels (rights) and a watched a couple guys get pitted. I managed a really nice left, but was dropped in on so I watched this great wave in front of me. I called for the wave as I dropped in, but not loud enough. The perpetrator surfed well enough and seemed genuinely surprised when he did a big cutback at the end and met me, almost face-to-face. He was quite apologetic and I didn't raise a big stink, hoping Karma would pay me back. Never got another wave like that, though I did catch a couple more pretty good lefts. Macked a Freddys sandwich afterwards and watched the wind blow out.

October 28, 2003, Tuesday
San Francisco

3.6 ft/ 16 seconds

Offshore flow continues. A beautiful fall morning. Matt and I met TB in the lot at 7:40 and quickly suited up and paddled out. I was a tad tentative as this was the first surf back after getting the stitches out of my nose. Waves were breaking pretty fast, some a-frames and very well defined and clean. Surfed my 6"4" fishy expecting it to be smaller. No matter, it worked great. Caught one super fun, good left mid-session, and a nice steep bigger one, and a handful of shorter ones. By the end of the session we'd all been transported to Fulton! Jog walked all the way back to almost Lincoln and standing on the beach decided to paddle back out for one more.

Standing in the warming lot looking out at the clean waves after the session it was hard to head off to work.

October 26, 2003, Sunday
San Francisco


Another day of the heat wave and off-shores. Unfortunately, I'd committed to swimming in the Dolphin Club versus South End race, so couldn't hit the beach. Pulling up at the Muni Pier at 8:00 a.m. my car registered a 72 deg. temp! We jumped at the Yacht Club at 9:00 a.m. to enjoy a tide ride back to Aquatic Park. I have to admit the water temp shocked me (no wetsuit, of course) but I managed to keep it all together and swim down the Marina green, past the Yacht entrance, past Fort Mason, swiftly along the Muni Pier and in. I hit the sand, stood around for a minute, then soaked up a hot shower and sauna.

October 20, 2003, Monday
San Francisco

7:45 - 9:00 6 ft/14 s

Was hoping to sneak in a fun, morning go-out before a 9:30 a.m. meeting in SF. Paddled out into what looked to be overhead, fast, thick, hard breaking and chunky conditions. The session was g frustrating and to make matters worse, resulted in me going to the Emergency Room. After an hour of paddling around and catching only 3 or 4 crummy waves that either closed out or tossed me, I looked to get one in. I didn't have much strength (as I'd surfed all morning Saturday, and did yardwork day Sunday) and had been caught inside a couple times already... and it was the kind of day where the waves were breaking large and hard on the inside bar. Good 4 or 5 foot on the face, thick, and just crashing down hard. Any rate, I paddled south of VFW trying to get a chunky peaky that was jacking up there. Well, I started paddling in to shore to catch this wave and I guess it just sort of jacked up. I don't even remember getting to my feet. Next thing I know, my 7'0" is colliding into my face. Damnitall. Came up in the soup, hoping there was no blood, but discovered a fistful of blood as I checked my nose. Belly boarded one in and staggered up to the lot. The blood kept on coming for a few minutes more until I got a towel on it. At first, I thought it was just a bad cut, but then realized it was something that would probably require some stitches. Hardly anybody in the water that morning, and a pretty empty parking lot as well. Ended up getting some stitches and sitting out for a week.

Surfpulse.com had this to say about the conditions on 10/20:

"Monday 10-20-03 at 11:00 AM PST
Set waves are 1-4 feet overhead and some waves are over 1.5X's overhead. Size will probably drop later. Conditions are fair. The waves are lumpy and mushy, yet they still have a lot of power- if that makes any sense. Some power remains from that last swell, so be careful. There’s a lot of consistency (and paddling) with the medium-sized waves. The weather is partly sunny/foggy at the coast."

October 18, 2003, Saturday
San Francisco

10:15 - 1:15 8 ft/14 s

Jimmy and I paddled out into the fog at VFW with no idea of how the waves were. Of course we knew there was some size as Friday evening had reportedly been big, but we just couldn't see through the fog. I took out my 8'0" Ward Board and made it out pretty easily. For two hours of surfing I really couldn't tell where we were. You couldn't see any land. The waves were pretty clean, a slight bump on the surface, but generally good and clean. I'd estimate about 1.5x overhead on the bigger ones, up to double overhead. I caught one large wave that was probably closing in on DOH and definitely warranted the 8'0". Otherwise lots of l slightly overhead ones. Jimmy was charging on a 6'6" and scratched into a bunch. The final hour the sun had broken through and a pretty good pack had developed south of VFW. After 40 mins. of not catching a wave (and rapping with Victor) I caught a good sized one in. No chance of making it down the line so straightened out and rode it in. Afterwards, dropped the RipCurl off at WISE (to be sent back for repairs) and lounged at the beach enjoying a Freddy's sandwich.

October 10, 2003, Friday
Santa Cruz

7:30 - 9:00 a.m. Medium to High tide (5.0 at 11:00 a.m.)

Monterey buoy seems wacked. 15 ft. / 13 seconds but there's no way it was that large!
Checked out the West side expecting that macking swell would be producing good surf despite about a 2.5 foot tide. I guessed wrong. West side wasn't really working, save for a very good looking, if crowded Steamer Lane. Ross and I passed on that and headed to the East Side. Over there we found decent overhead looking surf. The waves looked pretty fun, if a bit sloppy. There must be a fair amount of windswell in the water cause it just hasn't been that glassy or smooth even at sun up! Much more texture and lump than I'd expect. Nonetheless we paddled out and after 20 minutes it was just the two of us. Got a couple nice zippy lefts (on the 6'8") that allowed for some nice down the line pumping. Looked like Ross got a few fun rights as well. Probably woulda surfed another 30 or 40 minutes, but had to get in to work so bolted just after 9 a.m.

An offshore flow is supposed to set up soon. This would be a welcome relief to the onshore flow we've had for seemingly a couple few weeks. We'll see if it materializes.

October 8, 2003
North of Santa Cruz

7:30 - 9:00 a.m. High tide, 5.0 at 10:20 a.m.

Monterey buoy 8 ft. / 13 sec.
Well, the swell was showing. Walking out to the break,Jimmy and I could hear the waves crashing and spied the lumps coming in as we approached the overlook. Water was a bit textured, surf, a bit lumpy and not very hollow. As we suited up on the cliff, we saw a size-y set come in -- at least 2-3 feet overhead and a bit unruly! Only 1 guy out! Paddled out on the 7'0" Rusty and quickly got into a couple short right handers (your only option at this break for the most part) Nice punch to the waves though many flattened out before reforming a bit on the inside. Surfred about 8 or 9 waves in total, the last wave all the way to the beach (~ 100 yards) Tide was too high (maxing at 5.0 at 10:20) but a pretty solid sesh nonetheless. Nice fall season feel to the session.

October 04 ,2003
Santa Cruz, mid-town
7:15 a.m. - 10:00 a.m.

In the water at 7:15. Paddled out on the 6'8" expecting some juice in the water but was somewhat disappointed with only shoulder to head high conditions. Could've easily ridden my fish in this session. Waves would roll in jack up then back off a bit before slamming on the shore. Paddled out with dry hair, took a right to the inside went up to the lip and was thrown down / off my board completely dunking me. Crowd went from 5-6 up to 15-20, almost half sponger (?!). Pretty mellow scene for the crowd of people out there. Overall a pretty good session though the high tide conditions left a lot to be desired. Spent the rest of the day helping my brother in-law move, and painting a house. Wiped out by 9:30 P.M.!

September 30,2003
South Bay Area
2:00 PM

Still waiting. Last day of September and anxiously awaiting October and some "Aleutian juice!" Supposed to come later this week. I am getting quite antsy. I'm sure it'll be crowded this weekend as everybody is ready for some juice. Snuck over to the local swim center at lunch and swam 2,200 yards. Some Individual Medley (IM), some freestyle. Felt O.K. despite only swimming about once/week this past month. Beautiful, mild sunny day. Air temp 75, pool temp 81.

September 13 , 2003
San Francisco
7:45 - 10:45 (windswell)

Perhaps not the true 'season opener' as it was still just windswell and a touch of groundswell, but damn was this a fun session. Met MattH en route and got to the beach at 7:30 on a wonderful September morning. Not as warm as 9/11, but still a great looking morning. We suited up immediately and headed out. I broke out my 6'8" for what looked to be head high waves. I'd put a nice, fresh coat of surf wax on it a couple months prior, but hadn't surfed it yet. It felt good under my belly as I paddled out. At least 50 guys strewn out along the south end of the beach where we paddled out, but plenty of waves coming through so that the crowd was not a real factor. Scored some really fun waves almost immediately. Similar to the 9/11 session, if bigger and cleaner. Outside rollers, jacking up on the inside for some real speed! A body boarder remarked "wave of the day!" after a pretty good left. Saw Matt drop in and smoothly bottom turn a good 8 foot face.
About two hours into the session I caught a wave on the insdie bar that was an absolute blast. Had to make a concerted effort to make the sections, pumping the Rusty down the line. Felt really sure footed and in good shape to make it, and did jamming a smooth, fluid 75 yard left. As I shot past a lone surfer he hooted on encouragement. I floated off the back on the inside, arms raised overhead. By 10:30 the wind was starting to come on shore and the waves became kind of funky and sets were sporadic. Caught one in and enjoyed some cereal in the parking lot. After a little hanging out, we went down to WISE and I bought a pair of Rainbow sandals.

September 11 , 2003
7 ft./10 seconds (windswell)

Everyone and their brother had been forecasting hot, Indian summer weather the last few days so I blocked off this morning on my calendar and railed to the beach at sunup. 65 degrees at 7:00 A.M.., the weather certainly did not disappoint. Surfed the south end of the beach w/ Matt H.
Quite disorganized, but almost nonstop wave action coming at us the whole time. Waves would roll in and start to stand up on the outside bar, and you had to be right at the peak to catch 'em. Dialed in to a couple really fun lefts early on in the session. The outside mush would connect whit the inside bar creating fast, steep makeable walls. So much fun. Surfed the 6'4" fishy which I thought might be too small, but proved to be an excellent board for the conditions; flying down the face of waves, high-lining the inside to beat the sections. Surfed a good 12-15 waves, a few really good. Must've been about 80 degree air temp when I got out at 10:00 A.M.



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